Central Pennsylvania Ice Climbing Directions
and Beta
Some of the following has been taken with permission from
the "Bellefonte Climbing Guide" written by Jim Bowers. If you don’t
already have this guidebook, you should. At least get it for the local scene
history and humor...it’s a great read. Contact Jim at his Synrock Holds
web sites. I also borrowed information on directions from a paper compiled by
Chad Kramer.
LOCK
HAVEN ICE CLIMBING AREAS:
Good ice is a rare commodity
in Pennsylvania, yet there is no shortage of crazed pick-wielding individuals
seeking out frozen adventures. Historically, the Centre County area ice scene
has been non-existent as the consensus had it that there just wasn't any
climbable ice within a short drive of the Bellefonte - State College area.
Fortunately some interesting discoveries in recent years have changed this
situation and there is sufficient local ice to satisfy the palette of the most
discriminating ice climber. The temperature in the central PA area averages a
few degrees cooler than eastern and southern parts of the state and more importantly, all the areas are in the shade so the ice that
forms tends to last throughout the season.
MAP OF LOCK HAVEN ICE CLIMBING AREAS
DIRECTIONS AND BETA:
Between 12 and 18 miles west
of Lock Haven on Route 120 along the West Branch of the Susquehanna River are
three very nice climbing areas within a short distance of each other. I've
climbed at just about all the Pennsylvania ice areas and these rank high on my
list in terms of quality ice. Word has filtered out about this area but not
detailed information which is necessary as the best ice is well-hidden and not
visible from the road. It took a long time for us to discover these hidden
areas and people have driven here from as far away as Philadelphia only to
return because they erroneously thought that nothing was in shape.
ROADSIDE GULLY
The only obvious Lock Haven
ice climbing area is this very long gully located next to Rt. 120 around 12.8
miles north of Lock Haven University. The gully is on the left just beyond the
bridge over Baker Run and starts almost directly on the road. Roadside Gully is
around 400 ft. long and the bottom is often not completely frozen due to the
large amount of water that flows down it. Be careful in this gully because I've
seen large ice chunks go all the way to the road from the top (you could too).
Also this thing avalanches occasionally! The interesting climbing is in the
large amphitheater near the top which starts out with a 30 ft. high flow of the
first steep tier. Depending on conditions, this may be a sloping bulge or a
steep wall. This tier ends on a sloping series of ledges and if you belay here,
anchors must be set with screws. Above this, two more vertical tiers present
many intriguing, scary and sick climbs that ascend pillars up the steep cliff
bands. Between the second and third vertical tiers is a large ledge with trees
that can be used as belay anchors. Escape to the right at the top of all three
tiers to rappel to the road. Numerous trees to both sides of Roadside Gully can
be used for the descent rappel. Short descriptions of the second tier from left
to right follow:
Left Pillar - The wet pillar on the far left
usually forms ok but topping out can often be tricky. FFA: Jim Bowers, Brent Buzard - 1986.
Mixed Fun - About 20 ft. to the right of Left
Pillar, moderate climbing leads to a left-facing verglassed
ramp which ends at a large tree overhanging the cliff (bear hug it). This fun
route is almost always in climbable condition. FFA: Jim Bowers, Matt McMillan -
1983.
Thriller Pillar - In the middle of the cliff there
sometimes is a super thin pillar (you can put your arms around it) - wild and
sick. FFA: Mike Miller, Jim Bowers - 1985.
Mixed Madness - Right of Thriller Pillar, there is
a thin drip which goes up under a rock overhang and abruptly stops. Go left
from the overhang through a notch on mixed snow, veg
and rock - very insane. FFA: Jim Bowers, Ken Kruickshank
- 1983.
The following climbs have
been established and are described from left to right on the third tier:
Scumbag - Sick mixed route on far left of the
curtain. Originally called knee-scum because one of the moves
required a hard knee brace move. Amount of ice on this route varies from
season to season. FFA: Kurt Merrill, Brian Ladrido -
1996
Motorhead - The left side of the Glass
Menagerie cliff band rarely comes into shape and presents the longest steep
line in Roadside gully. This hanging curtain rarely touches down and may
present a mixed start. The curtain touched down two years in a row in
1996-1997. FFA: Kurt Merrill, Brian Ladrido - 1996.
It almost touched down in 2003 and Brint Price and
Rob Ginieczki gained the curtain with a mixed
variation from the right.
Merrill Project - The roof in the center of the of
the Glass Menagerie cliff band is an established TR mixed route that was
pioneered by Kurt Merrill in the middle to late 1990's. He never got a chance
to finish it on lead. The route needs a bolt to protect above the roof as he
couldn't get any pro to stick.
Glass Menagerie - This large steep pillar on the
right side of the third cliff band comes in shape in good years - sick and
strenuous. This is the most popular route on the third tier. FFA: Hank Andolsek, Jim Bowers - 1983.
GEMINI GULLIES
The area that is
consistently in shape all the time is the pair of 250 ft. high gullies located
on the opposite side of the river just past the Roadside Gully. Gemini Gullies take a
long time to get to but are worth the drive. There is a large fence here to
protect the railroad from falling matter. You can see this area across the
river from Route 120 less than a mile upstream from Roadside Gully, but you
can't see the ice in the gullies because they are hidden by large pines. To get
there, either walk across the river if frozen solid (rope up), canoe across, or
drive north on Rt.120 until you cross the Susquehanna on the bridge at Hyner. Take the next left at Hyner
Run Road and follow the river and the railroad track back south (crossing back
underneath the bridge). Follow this dirt road approximately 7 miles down river. If there is snow on the ground, a four wheel
drive is recommended as the road is not maintained in the winter. Both flows
start at the same low angle point and end with wide steep amphitheaters at the
top. The climbing is obvious and the gullies get progressively steeper as you
ascend. Descent is by rappelling the gullies to the
tracks. This area tends to give you a feeling of total isolation from the rest
of civilization (until a train comes by of course). Also, along the railroad
tracks just right of the Gemini's, is a 25 ft. tall
shield of steep ice. Above this flow is a low angle gully which is fun for
beginners. This is perhaps the most reliable ice in Pennsylvania.
HIDDEN AMPHITHEATER
Hidden Amphitheater
is located approximately 4.7 miles past Roadside Gully in a notch in the
mountain on the left before you cross the river at Hyner.
Once you can look ahead and see a narrow field along the left side of the road,
park as soon as the guard rail on the right ends. You can also park in a plowed
parking area on the left a couple hundred yards before the narrow field. You
can't see this climb at all from the road but look for the notch in the ridge
line and follow the steep stream gully past fallen trees about 100 yards until
you come to an impressive amphitheater. Not always in shape but usually some
nice steep ice. Hidden sports three vertical tiers divided by large ledges. The
harder routes are on the right of the amphitheater with the second tier pillar
being the crux. Easier climbing can be enjoyed to the left.
WILLIAMSPORT
ICE CLIMBING AREAS:
PINE CREEK GORGE -
PENNSYLVANIA GRAND CANYON
Pine Creek Gorge between
Ansonia and Blackwell is also known as the Grand Canyon of Pennsylvania. Many
small waterfalls exist in the gullies flowing into Pine Creek. This area
produces fairly consistent ice during most winters. There are many steep single
pitch routes and a few gully climbs that approach two pitches. Follow the
access road to the ghost town of Tiadaghton on the
east side of the canyon to the bottom, then follow the rail trail and look for
ice. The largest route is Falling Springs on the west side of the canyon.
Physical access here may be an issue as it is on the opposite side of Pine
Creek from the rail trail.
ROUTE 15 NORTH
From Williamsport, take Rt.
15 north for approximately 10 miles. Route 15 offers a lot of different ice
climbs but do not offer much protection. There is one flow which offers some toproping potential. Be sure to pull completely off the
highway or you may get a ticket.
WEIS AMPHITHEATER
Weis Amphitheater is an
abandoned quarry that sports several steep lines. Located
across Loyalsock Creek behind the Weis grocery store
along Business Route 15 just north of Williamsport. Access is an issue
here due to no trespassing signs along the approach.
MONTGOMERY
The river cliffs at Montgomery offer probably the
highest density of good climbs in the area. Unfortunately it is south facing so
the climbs get a little soft in the late afternoon. Most climbs are less than
60 ft. tall, but offer steep gullies and pillars to practice leading or toprope. From Williamsport, take Rt. 15 south to Rt. 54
east to Montgomery. Where Rt. 54 veers left in the middle of Montgomery, go
straight over the railroad tracks. Take the first right after the tracks and
cross the bridge, veer left and don't cross the tracks again. Park on the right just before the sewage treatment plant.
Walk down the railroad tracks away from town. The climbs are on the right and
are all set back approximately 100 yards from the tracks. There are climbs
dotted throughout this ridge line until the railroad tracks cross the bridge
over the Susquehanna River. If anyone has any documented
first ascent information, contact me.
ANGEL FALLS
This 70 foot high falls is
usually full of ice even in dry years. Angel falls is located in southern
Sullivan County. From
Williamsport/Montoursville, take Rt. 87 north until you cross the
Lycoming-Sullivan County line, then turn right on Ogdonia/Brunnerdale Road at the Camp Lycogis
Girl Scout Camp. Follow this dirt road 1.5 miles to a large parking area on the
right. Cross the dirt road and follow the trail north. The trail goes slightly
downstream then turns right up Falls Run 1/4 mile to the ice. Angel Falls is on
State Forest land and has access issues in the summer due to vegitation degradation. This should not be a problem in the
winter with snow on the ground.
WORLDS END STATE
PARK
Worlds End State Park
boasts possibly the longest vertical ice in Pennsylvania on High Rocks along Loyalsock Creek in the middle of the park. Unfortunately,
ice climbing is not an approved activity and officials will ask you to leave.
There is also ice on a road cut along Rt. 154 just east of the park, but you
still risk being harrased by the officials. It's hard
to believe you cannot climb here as the next closest state park (Ricketts Glen)
welcomes climbers. From Williamsport/Montoursville, take Rt. 87 north until you
reach the town of Forksville. Turn right on Rt. 154
and head southeast to Worlds End.
RICKETTS GLEN STATE
PARK
Ricketts Glen State
Park harbors Glens Natural Area, a National Natural Landmark. Ice Climbing
is an approved activity here and you may call the park office (570-477-5675)
for current ice conditions. They do require signing in and out in a logbook
that is located at the park's maintenance building. The 94-foot Ganoga Falls is the highest of 22 named waterfalls in the
Glens and is the most popular area to climb. Ganoga
Falls is a casual grade 3 route and the right side of the amphitheater below
the falls sports several grade 3+ or grade 4 pillars. Ricketts Glen is located
in Luzerne Co. along Rt. 487 north of Bloomsburg. Park at the Maintenance
Building, sign in at the open restroom, and hike towards Ganoga
Glen. After crossing a bridge, take the left and follow the Falls Trail into
the Ganoga Glen branch of Kitchen Creek to the amphitherater.