Central Pennsylvania Ice

Earl Bright reports: 3/1/09 - Ricketts Glenn - the hike in was horrible, the old way in from the maint. garage is closed and the length of the hike in from the top more than doubled. The trail was a mix of rock, snow, and ice. Coming in from the lower access along Rt 118 would have been much better. The falls are wide open, no climbable ice at all on the falls. There were several pillars on the far right that are climbable and some small bulges to the left of the falls. Not great, but we spent the day playing around on some of the smaller stuff. Not bad for March 1st. Please see the attached pics.

3/1/09 - Open water on Ganoga Falls.

3/1/09 - Ganoga Falls Amphitheater. 3/1/09 - Steep pillars on right side of amphitheater still thick. Grab it while you can. Weather forcast predicts temps in the 60’s by next weekend.

Dennis Yonkin reports: We optimistically hiked into Ganoga on February 8th, after a day of 40 degree temps and found what we expected. A couple of contrived lines could be found but the main routes were gushing water. Beautiful day nonetheless.

Open water on Ganoga Falls.

Right side pillars at Ganoga Falls Amphitheater.

From Tom Mrotek: An update for the rappel anchors on Roadside, Hidden and Gemini. Several of us installed those two years ago. They are two lengths of 8mm perlon and two 5/16ths quicklinks or two Omega Pacific rap rings. A few of us have rapped off of the installed anchors on Gemini, Roadside and Hidden this season and they were all still decent in our opinion with the exception of one. The anchor on the second tier of Roadside (at the top of Left Pillar) had been badly damaged by rockfall and was replaced last weekend. Make sure to always inspect anchors before you use them! I believe that next year we'll replace that anchor with two lengths of chain due to the large amount of rock fall on those tiers.

From Damon Lowell: Jason Stabley and I climbed Roadside Monday, Feb.2. Warm temps brought a day of awesome plastic ice and excellent sticks! I led Left Pillar and topping out was heinous. The large snag across the top of the pillar affords room to finish underneath, providing you're not wearing a pack, and was useful for an arm-hang as I was thrutching to finish the climb.The ice terminates at the top, and gaining the rampy ledge was difficult. Please note the snag has ice on the topside of it and presents a hazard to those below. Colder temps would provide much easier and safer moves while exiting the pillar and gaining the ledge. I was scraping at snow-covered choss and large cobbles. There is a tree anchor up and right consisting of two strands of (6 mil?)cord and small galvanized snap links. There is another one on the left roughtly halfway up the low angle approach gully. Obviously it would be a good idea to part with some cord or webbing in order to back them up as they are weathering rapidly exposed to the weather. The upper tier climbs all looked good. Glass Menangerie is in, fat, touching down, and appears to have potentially, if not existing continuous ice above. Snow and continued cooler temps will maintain hydro and help to ensure a few more weeks of Bucktail ice.

Ed Hosler reports: Jason Stabley, Damon Lowell and myself made it to the Hidden Amphitheater on Saturday 1/31/09. We were accompanied by another party from State College; sorry I cannot remember all their names, but I heard they had a good dinner at a recommended favorite, the Old Corner in Lock Haven! The ice is very good right now, still a little thin at the top and verglas is not really my thing. Damon decided to take a nice lead fall and answer the question we have all been wondering about: "do those screamers really work?" Well they do and we highly recommend them to anyone out there pickin that ice. Jason impressed us all with his first ascent of the left side of the gully with a pair of G10's! Damon and I also checked out Roadside yesterday to see what effect the warm weather had on the ice. Everything was still pretty good and if we get some more cold temps,. it will only contribute to the freeze-thaw cycle and make for some good climbing. Damon and Jason plan to head back to the Roadside on Monday. We will keep you posted.

Hidden Amphitheater - 1/31/09

Leading the left side.

Somewhat thin conditions.

Living testimonial - Yes, they do work!

From Jason Erdman: Tom Eric and I headed to Lock Haven on 1/30 for a day of climbing. We started the day in Hidden Amphitheater. Eric led the left side of the Amphitheater, which was in good condition. The steeper right side of the Amphitheater is still pretty thin and not quite ready to climb. We also TRed one of the thin drips on the overhanging alcove above the third tier.

Roadside Gully is in very good condition and is climbable from bottom to top. Tom, Eric and I soloed up the lower section to the base of the second tier. Several routes on the second tier are climbable. The line up the far left side (Left Pillar) is in good condition, but there is a downed tree on the edge, which could make the top out very difficult and possibly a little dangerous depending on the stability of the tree. Mixed Fun, to the right of Left Pillar is a little thin, but climbable. Tom led Mixed Madness, which was in very good condition and very fun. On the third tier, Glass Menagerie, on the right side, is climbable, but the bottom is a little thin. Motorhead, on the left side is started, but will need a lot more time before it touches down.

Tom and Eric in Hidden Amphitheater (1/30/09)

Eric on lead in Hidden Amphitheater (1/30/09)

Tom leading Mixed Madness in Roadside Gully (1/30/09)

Glass Menagerie is ready! (1/30/09)

Jason Erdman Reports: Eric, Joe and I climbed the lower section of Roadside Gully today for Joe's first time ever on ice. The upper tiers are not quite in yet, but are forming nicely. With the cold temps forecasted to stick around throughout the week, the upper tier could be climbable by next weekend.

Eric at the top of Roadside Gully, lower section - 1/25/09

Joe, feeling ice for the first time, Roadside Gully - 1/25/09

Roadside Gully Upper Tiers, A little thin, but almost in - 1/25/09

Thom Fantaskey reports: Last Sunday we headed to Rickett's Glen and Ganoga Falls. The right side was formed but soft, middle was thin and wet, and a few pillars were touching down and fat on the right wall of the amphitheater. If temps stay low, Ganoga Falls should be in from top to bottom by next weekend. Photo notes: (1) newbie Galen Smith on his first TR ice climb - Ganoga Falls, (2)(do not know his name) rappelling after leading the main pillar (War Bonnet?) on the right side of the amphitheter.

Ganoga Falls, Ricketts Glen - 1/18/09

Steep pillar on right wall of Ganoga Falls Amphitheater - 1/18/09

We stopped and checked the conditions of Roasdside Gully today on our way home from the Gemini Gullies. The cold temperatures this week has helped bring this route into shape. The low angle approach has filled in nicely and it appears the steep upper tiers are now touching down. - Dave

Roadside Gully - January 18, 2009

A group from our store (Appalachian Outdoors) took a trip across the river to the Gemini Gullies today. The road is not plowed for most of the 7 mile drive down river to the route so 4 wheel drive is highly recommended. Both gullies are developing nicely and surprisingly, the right gully was in better shape today. We noticed footprints at the top so we were not the first party to climb this one this year. Tom and Jason led both sides of right gully and then we setup top ropes to pick off the more obscure lines in the amphitheater.

The base of Gemini Gullies - 1/18/09

Right Gemini Gully - 1/18/09

Topping out in Right Gemini Gully - 1/18/09

Jason on lead. Right Gemini Gully - 1/18/09

Tom on lead. Right Gemini Gully - 1/18/09

Thom Fantaskey and George Matthews reports: Friday Jan 16 we checked out Angel Falls on the Loyalsock Trail. It was forming nicely, water was rushing behind a thin curtain in the middle area but we were able to go up both sides. In a few days it will be pretty nice. Attached are 2 photos.

George Matthews on Angel Falls - 1/16/09

Thom Fantasky on Angel Falls - January 16, 2009

Ed Hosler reports: I took a ride up to see if the recent cold weather has given us an edge yet. (Wednesday 01-14-09) Another week of cold temps and we will be in good shape. (looks like we might get it) As you can see from the attached pictures the ice is coming in well on the main roadside gully in the bucktail. The upper tiers look as though they need some more work as well. (shown in picture 2). Lastly the little roadside gully is climbable. I plan to check out the twins and hidden this weekend as I am sure they are a safe bet due to the amount of ice seen yesterday. As always be safe!

Roadside Gully 1/14/09

Roadside Gully Upper Tiers 1/14/09

Little Roadside Gully 1/14/09

From Dennis Yonkin: Cody and I visited Montgomery, Weis, Roadside Gully and Hidden Gully. Montgomery had the best ice forming, although it is still chandaliered, unbonded and not ready to climb. We didn't want to knock it down. Weis could come in... two weeks? Roadside Gully still has open water, but the upper curtains are forming. Hidden has not formed much at all, little water in stream. We attempted to drive back to Gemini Gullies and only got about 2 miles down the road because they quit plowing! From across the river we could not see much. Pictures are attached.

Montgomery 1/14/09

Montgomery 1/14/09

Montgomery 1/14/09

Weis Amphitheater (Wildwood) 1/14/09

Weis Amphitheater (Wildwood) 1/14/09

Roadside Gully 1/14/09

Roadside Gully 1/14/09

Hidden Amphitheater 1/14/09

Typical Central Pennsylvania freeze/thaw cycles have not let the conditions come in at Lock Haven. We had several large rain events the last week of December and the gullies are running strong with water. We will need at least a solid week of single digit temps to solidify this amount of water running out of the gullies. We took a recon trip up the Renovo road this afternoon to confirm this. Roadside has some ice forming in the steep upper tiers, but nothing is either touching down or reaching the top of each pitch. The low angle approach is still open water.

Roadside Gully - January 4, 2009

Similar dismal conditions were noted from looking across the river at the Gemini Gullies. There is steep ice forming to the right of the gullies along the railroad cut, and in the gullies ice is starting to form, but nothing is continuous. There is just too much water running for the temps we are currently experiencing. Its not ready yet folks!

We are hopeful for a good season this year. Winter has come early to Central Pennsylvania, but the temps have not been consistantly cold enough to bring things in.

HELP WANTED! Please help keep this site up to date. Use the form listed on the right or email your Pennsylvania Ice Climbing trip reports and photos to dave@hikebikeclimb.net and I will post them to this site.